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The two iron laws of cycling in the Netherlands

by Bram Posthumus

24-05-2007

If you want to experience cycling in a windy flat country like the Netherlands, the Afsluitdijk offers an unforgettable experience. I should know, I've been there.

Listen to a special edition of Newsline on the 75th anniversary of the Afsluitdijk, or Enclosure Dam.

This week, the Netherlands marks the 75th anniversary of the completion of the Afsluitdijk, the country's longest dike, which keeps the North Sea at bay. The 32km dam protects the country's biggest freshwater lake and source of drinking water.

This is the first iron law of cycling in the Netherlands: it's always further than you think. And a 32km dam that separates sea from lake is a long way when you are hunched over your handlebar battling with a unpleasantly persistent northeasterly wind. Trust me, I've been there.

When you look forward, eyes just above your spinning front wheel, you see that long line before you, green grass-covered dyke to your left, black motor road and the grey IJsselmeer to your right. And the wind just won't let up.

A breeze...
But there's something on the horizon. Pillars or towers, you can't quite make out yet. Tantalisingly slowly, they creep closer. It looks like you're making it. Hey, this Afsluitdijk thing is a breeze!

Ah, no. When you finally get there you find that you've reached the locks at the half-way point. The first law of cycling in the Netherlands is working - but not to your advantage.

Struggle
And now, the wind is getting stronger. You're stomping on your pedals, your forehead is fast approaching the harsh iron handlebar below you. Your body starts protesting. Spasms of pain radiate from your lower back. You try cycling standing up. It's no use. You're losing it.

But then you seem have a vision: a tiny church spire. On the horizon. But it's not a vision, it's real. So this thing ends after all, this green to your left, this black and grey to your right.

And now you want to finish the job. Wind, be damned! I want to get there. To the end of the dam. There will be Paradise with slow coffees and deep massage.

Excruciating
Your back's broken, but your spirits soar. You've done it! And most of all, it's goodbye to that cursed wind that has been your enemy for hour after excruciating hour.

Ah, no. Because as you turn, and it does not matter whether it's left or right, you will encounter the second iron law of cycling in the Netherlands: when you change direction, so does the wind. Trust me, I've been there. 
 

Tags: afsluitdijk, cycling, dam, defences, dike, dutch, netherlands, sea, zuiderzee

Reaction(s):

TDK, 27-05-2007 - Canada

Well, I am an avid road cyclist and living in Calgary, which is less than 1 hour to the Rocky Mountains, I can tell you that most club cycles we do have some form of cross or head wind (along with the many rolling hills). And almost always, the wind is never a tail wind. As we do our club rides to Bragg Creek - about 20 kms, the wind will change direction several times and seldom a tail wind. A good training experience. The Dike's long straight, open monotony will probably multiply the 32 kms distance by several times. So I think I would mind this wind as its probably constant, whereas ours here is usually gusty, making it hard to find your rhythym.

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Tony Sims, 25-05-2007 - USA

I'll tell you another place where cycling is very similar to where you describe -- east central Illinois. When I was in grad school there I spent many an hour battling a ferocious headwind -- in both directions! And the terrain there is every bit as flat as that in the Netherlands. Maybe even flatter if you can believe it!

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Erik Larsen, 24-05-2007 - USA

An excellent summary of biking in the Netherlands. I remember biking to school and always AGAINST the wind. It would change from morning to afternoon. Fortunately I didn't have to cross the aflsuitdijk, though... :)

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