Radio Nederland Wereldomroep

by Marijke van der Meer

12-02-2003

Feokista Xramova's rainbow sash - many Mari have a deep reverence for natureThe Mari have had an autonomous republic, Mari-el, since 1920, but half of the Mari live outside of the republic, which has a population of roughly 800 thousand. Since coming under Russian control in the 16th century, the Mari converted (partly by force) to Russian Orthodoxy, but to this day they also observe animist traditions based on a deep reverence for nature, especially trees. Religious rituals and animal sacrifice are performed  in sacred groves, called keremet, and the ceremony is presided over by a kart, a priest. A kart also blessed the president of Mari-el at his inauguration in 1992, and a prayer book was published.

Click to listenListen to the Mari actor Sacha Silvyestrov recite from a play by Nikolai Ugarin that was translated from Chuvash into Mari

The Finnic language of the Mari has more than half a million speakers. It is distantly related to Finnish, but speakers of the two languages cannot understand each other. The name Volga itself may be of Finnic origin, as are the names of other rivers in the region whose names end in –ga, or –ka or –va:  Oka, Viatka, Moskva.

Biblical boost
During the 19th century, the language received a boost from the translation of the New Testament and the publication of the first school books. A classic work of Mari literature is Sergei Tsavain's poem "Ota" (leaf-tree forest), published in 1905.

Faina Eschmyekova playing the kusleThe literary language suffered a severe blow when the Mari intelligentia were decimated under Stalin in the 1930's, but in recent years a rebirth of interest has occurred, in spite of the pressures of urban and global culture. The first opera was written in the language in 1963, "Akpatyr". Efforts are underway to produce a standard dictionary for the three dialects: hill or mountain, meadow and eastern.

Click to listenListen to Faina Eschmyekova and "The Sisters" sing in Mari and play the kusle

The meadow Mari on the left bank and the hill Mari on the right bank of the Volga are now separated by the huge reservoir of the Cheboksary electric station, which has also flooded many villages.

Radio Netherlands' Marijke van der Meer meets Feokista Xramova, a MariSome of this ethnic heritage has been saved from the waters in the beautiful open-air ethnographic museum overlooking the Volga in Kozmodemyansk. Considered to be one of the best collections of peasant culture in Russia, it contains about 60 wooden dwellings, including an original Mari sauna and an operating windmill, as well as eight thousand traditional household objects.

Unique musical tradition
The Mari have unique musical traditions, including instruments known almost exclusively to their culture, like shyuvr bagpipe and the many-stringed zither called the kusle. The lyrics of their songs often mention the Volga and reflect their love of nature, especially the forest and the rainbow.

Erik Juzycain"If we lose languages, we lose colors of the rainbow," says Erik Juzycain, a young ethnographer now working on a standard dictionary for the hill, meadow and eastern dialects of Mari. He  points out that in contrast to the ‘new' multi-culturalism of western Europe, the various ethnic groups in this region are still living on the land and on the river of their roots. The traditions they are seeking to revive are not foreign imports but native and ancient.

 

Click to listenListen to Erik Juzycain play the  shyuvr

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Tags: chuvash, kazan, mari, rivers series, russian, samara, tatar, volga