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Escaping the land of the green ghosts

by Dheera Sujan

27-10-2003

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Different world:Pascal Khoo Thwe´s people, the Padaung, are famous for their neck rings

"The Land of Green Ghosts – the title of my book, comes from the Burmese belief that if someone dies violently, they tend to turn into green ghosts and they're very vicious and we believe that green ghosts live in Burma and they're still having an effect on the people." Pascal Khoo Thwe

In the Oxford English dictionary, the word destiny is described as: predetermined events; power that foreordains; an invisible necessity. The chance meeting, the profoundly altered course of events, the emergence of a new future – all these can be put down to destiny. And all of them can be applied to the extraordinary story of Pascal Khoo Thwe.

He was born amongst the Padaung people, a small tribe from Shan State in southeastern Burma. The Padaung are best known to the outside world for the neck rings worn by some of their women, that stretch their necks high above their tiny shoulders.

Deep memories
"I remember Shan State as colour and smell," says Pascal "it has its own particular smell that I vividly remember – especially the smell of flowers and the earth after it rains. I also remember the sounds of birds. Most of all, I remember the sounds of people when you go to market, people haggling, sounds of festivals where people were playing music and dancing – these are memories that still live with me."

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Pascal eventually left his jungle home for Mandalay where he enrolled as a student of English Literature. At first he thought he'd arrived in a metropolis. But university life in Burma is a disappointing affair for a young man hungry for intellectual stimulation.

He found that students were expected to memorize the handful of essays given to them by their teachers and regurgitate them word for word in their exams. Any deviation would be punished by failing marks; students who had too many questions, or resisted the propaganda of the teachers were sent to prison camp. Books, aside from pro-government leaflets, were a rarity, and library shelves were bare. Students passed around shabby cyclostyled copies of a few haphazard titles and copied them out by hand, to be read and passed around again.

Literary waiter

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Pascal Khoo Thwe

An unlikely environment to foster any kind of love or insight into literature. Yet somehow Pascal managed to find and devour the occasional literary text. Meanwhile, demonetizations of the Burmese currency forced him to find work as a waiter in a Chinese restaurant.

Finally Pascal was at a point in his life where his destiny could begin to unfurl.

Dr John Casey, elegant Cambridge don, was also on a date with destiny. On his way to Japan, he decided to make a stop to Burma. He met friends who advised him, if he was ever in Mandalay, to look up the Chinese waiter who liked James Joyce. Intrigued, Dr Casey went to the restaurant and waited for an elderly Chinese gentleman to emerge. Instead, he met Pascal.

Later Pascal took him to meet some of his student friends at the university. Dr Casey was astonished by their hunger for knowledge, their love of literature, their desperation to talk to him about books.

Brutal repression
They parted and went their separate ways. Weeks later the 1988 insurrection broke out in Burma. Anti-government protesters poured on to the streets and were brutally dealt with. Pascal's young girlfriend was among them. He heard later about her arrest, rape, torture, and eventual murder by government forces. A military coup crushed the rebellion. Pascal, who had joined the student protests, returned to his home in Shan State. With government soldiers hot on his tail, he joined a group of students who fled to the jungle hideout of Karen rebels near the Thai border.

From here he had a chance to secrete a letter to Dr Casey in England. "He wrote a very moving letter about what had been happening to him" said Dr Casey, "and I noticed how, though his English was shaky, it was real English . . . it was genuine – poetic and full of feeling, written by someone who didn't have experience of writing the language but had a very strong feeling for words."

Escape

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John Casey

A strange correspondence began between the jungle fugitive and the ivory tower academic. While one hunted frogs and snakes for food and languished during ever-worsening malaria attacks, the other hatched a plan to get him out to safety. How the plan unfolded is not a part of this particular tale; it only need be said that it worked, and Pascal took one almost seamless jump from jungle hardships to the luxury of embassy life in Thailand where he marvelled at plumbing, carpets, and clean sheets.

After Pascal had assured Dr Casey that yes, he did want to continue his studies, he found himself to England. Dr John Casey, mover of mountains, had enrolled him to "read" English Literature at Cambridge University.

Destiny, chance, coincidence, and good luck can however only take one so far. After that, only individual will can complete the transformation.

Jungle to library
In Burma, Pascal had read probably not more than a dozen books in English. A Cambridge degree in literature demands a journey through the history of literature until the present day. So Pascal the Padaung, who spoke English as his third language, systematically made his way through medieval and renaissance texts, Greek tragedies and realist dramas, he read Shakespeare and Chaucer and Ibsen and wrote essays where, for the first time, he was forced to think for himself about a text. During the day, he learnt to fit in with the young English students around him biking around town, going to the pub and to university functions. At night, he dreamed of the jungle sounds of home, resisted the images of the killings and deaths he had witnessed, longed for his family.

Pascal passed his degree, and wrote his life's experiences in a book, "From the Land of Green Ghosts." The book went on to win the Kiryama Prize for non-fiction in 2002. He lives in London, still dreaming of one day returning to his country. Dr Casey still teaches at Caius College in Cambridge University.

It's a strange thing, destiny.

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Tags: burma, cambridge, Padaung, Pascal Khoo Thwe, student