Radio Nederland Wereldomroep

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Belgian chocolate - the 'real thing' under threat

by Vanessa Mock

09-01-2008

Belgian chocolate makers say the reputation of their world-renowned product could go into meltdown with the onslaught of rivals selling cheap, low-quality chocolate.

chocolates The imposing Grand Place in the heart of Brussels is a magnet for chocolate lovers who have flocked here for decades to snap up some of the world's finest cocoa-based delicacies. But this same square is now the battlefield in a chocolate war between pitting new makers against established 'chocolatiers', who say their good name is being dragged through the mud. 
 
"Over half a dozen new shops have sprung up just around this small area around the Grand Place, with names I don't recognise, selling low-quality chocolate," says Gill Broxhum of Neuhaus, a 150-old brand often described as the Rolls-Royce of chocolate.
 
This elegant shop, with its mouth-watering cocoa aroma, white marble counter and white-gloved staff, has been recently struggling to attract customers. Ms Broxhum explains: "We've had to refurbish the shop and publicise everywhere to make people aware of the difference in taste of our chocolate and that of our competitors. The sad truth is now traditional chocolate makers need to fight to get people and convince them that if you want quality, you have to pay for it."  

Belgium - chocolate facts
(data: 2004)

  • 87 enterprises producing chocolate (some also other confectionary)
  • employing around 7000 staff
  • turnover: 2.03 billion euros
  • production; 472,300 tonnes (incl. 253,500 bulk chocolate)
  • exports: 391,000 tonnes (incl. 193,300 bulk chocolate)
  • imports: 118,900 tonnes (incl. 44,100 bulk chocolate)
  • domestic consumption of chocolate: 6.2 kg per person
A cheaper bite
A small box of around 16 freshly-made Neuhaus chocolates costs at least 12 euros, double the price of newer brands such as Filip Martin. This unknown maker has set up two shops around the Grand Place in the past year. Although a true connoisseur would probably never set foot in these aroma-free premises, these new rivals are snapping up less discerning customers.
 
Business is booming, explains its young Chinese shop-manager: "We cater for tourists, and we always have promotions and cheap prices, just like a supermarket," says Sophie, who admits to never having tasted 'real' chocolate from traditional makers: "I think our chocolate tastes fine and we attract a lot of Chinese and other tour groups." 
 
Blind test
The real test, of course, is in the tasting, which is why Radio Netherlands Worldwide set up a small blind test with passers-by on the Grand Place. Each was given one chocolate from Filip Martin, another from Neuhaus and had to guess which was which.

In all cases, good taste won out: "It's a huge difference, the Neuhaus one is so special, fresher, very creamy," one woman smiled, stuffing down another mouthful. Another tester spat out the Filip Martin, crying 'horrid stuff!'
 
Although the tastebud winner is clear, Belgian's chocolatiers will have to fight ever harder to convince chocolate lovers to spend a bit more for a taste of cocoa heaven.

Tags: Belgian chocolate, Belgium, Brussels, Chocolate, Grand Place

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